T-1000 Questions (have been answered)

[thewoog34]

Yep, you definitely do not want to apply any power when measuring resistance. You also want to make sure you have the multimeter hooked up properly when measuring certain things or else you will get some smoke or maybe even some fireworks.

[sirendude2012]

My multimeter is a Russian tank and survived unscathed, except the 10A unfused circuit is blown obviously. On the downside, a continuity test reveals that the field is completely dead.

On the brighter side, I figured that I'll be old enough to get a job in a couple years, so I'll save up money to get it completely rewound. It beats having a Thunderbolt for a total of 5 days, you know. It'll be worth it. AbominaBolt anyone? How about yes!

[Westgate Thunderbolt]

I find it hard to believe that you damaged the field, and both windings at that. As was stated before, NEVER check resistance (ohms) with power applied to whatever you are checking. You will let the magic smoke out of any multimeter (ohmmeter). I will tell you that I checked that field out prior to shipping it and both field windings were reading 0.27 ohms. I also clean the commutator with a brush seating/commutator cleaning stone and then sprayed the motor down with an electric motor cleaner.

If you are sure that your meter is indeed still good, my thought is that you just aren't checking your field windings correctly.

The motor field consists of two individual windings. Each individual winding has two wire leads. For each winding one lead will go to power and the other is attached to the motor brush holder for the armature commutator. Power comes in through one power lead and goes into one field winding. From the winding it goes to one brush holder, through the brush and commutator and into the armature. From there the power leaves the armature out through the commutator and into the second brush and holder. Leaving the second brush holder it goes into the second winding and out through the other power wire lead.

To check the individual windings first REMOVE ALL POWER TO THE MOTOR! Remove the two brushes going to the motor. This is done to isolate the individual field windings from the armature and the other field winding. Find the two correct wires going to each of the windings. With your meter switched to ohms attach your meter leads to the two lead wires common to one field winding and check your reading. Do the same to the remaining two wires common to the other field winding. The lower the ohms the better, but a good winding will always read some resistance. If you are reading infinity or max out the ohm reading on your meter the field is open. An open field could be as simple as a broken wire lead connection to a burned open spot in the actual winding.

[holler]

^What he said^

And for god sakes READ THIS STUFF:

http://www.bcae1.com/vomillia.htm

http://www.allaboutcircuits.com/vol_1/chpt_3/9.html

http://www.wikihow.com/Check-an-Electric-Motor

https://learn.sparkfun.com/tutorials/ho ... troduction

http://www.groschopp.com/how-to-check-a-motor-armature/

When you apply power to a field with the armature not moving, the amperage is high and can burn it out in a very short time. I suggest you learn more about electricity, motors, and how to work with it before you blow something else up.

•Never try to read resistance or continuity with a multimeter on a circuit that is energized. At best, the resistance readings you obtain from the meter will be inaccurate, and at worst the meter may be damaged and you may be injured.

[sirendude2012]

After ohming it out the correct way, one winding reads 1.3-1.5 and the other reads the same. So, the coils are fine. I wonder, can I ohm out the armature somehow?

[holler]

You didn't read the links I posted? One of them tells you how to ohm out an armature.

BTW you need to post some pictures, it would be a great help.

[sirendude2012]

Oh... oops. I'll read those now. I'll get some pictures when I can, my camera battery needs charging desperately. I'll get some tomorrow, for sure.

[sirendude2012]

Sorry for the double post, but there is some important information to be relayed and one question that is seemingly unanswerable.

The Information: I Ohmed out the armature, double-checked the windings and the armature, and they all say 1.5 ohms of resistance. This means that the motor is perfectly fine, I believe. No shorting out and no frying done.

The Question:

The motor still has the same old problem. It completely loses torque, or it noticeably drops, in a 3/8 turn of the motor. This is what makes it not start occasionally, makes it run below rated RPM, make the unusual 60hz noise, and wind up so slowly. I've asked people a-plenty, but nobody really has a definite answer. It is the most mind-boggling thing. It could be a brush problem, or carbon buildup on the commutator, but I'm not sure. I would like to fix this thing so it runs perfectly. I plan to build it up into what it's supposed to be, a whole Thunderbolt, likely after I go to college in 4 to 5 years. I've got time to fix it, and will have money to do so next year. I just prefer to fix it as soon as possible.